You can never have too much fishing gear
Gear Selection
Fishing tackle, like many things, can be divided very broadly into three categories. The cheapest stuff is nearly always junk. I do not recommend buying the cheapest rod or reel you can find as it will not last and not function well. The next category up of gear, the mid-level, should work just fine. The top end pricey stuff is great to use if you can afford it and once you use it you will have a hard time going back just like anything. Click here for unbiased recommendations of tackle that has worked for me.
Rods
Before selecting a fishing rod, you need to figure out what kind of fish you want to catch with it. Once you do that, you need to figure out how you will be fishing for them. Rods will have suggested line rating and lure weight ranges on them. In general you should assume that the rod will perform optimally in the middle of that range. Note that the line ratings go out the window if you will be using braided line. In general, one-piece rods outperform rods that can be broken down into multiple pieces, but the convenience of being able to break down a rod into shorter pieces is often very valuable in this age of airline excess baggage fees.
Some of the factors to consider when selecting a rod are feel, weight, length, stiffness, taper, and guide material. If you hold a rod and it just doesn’t “feel right” you probably shouldn’t buy it as it is only going to feel worse after a day of casting with it. You want to get the lightest rod that you can get away with as this will reduce fatigue when casting all day. Rods made of graphite are generally the lightest and most sensitive although they are more likely to snap than fiberglass rods. If they get dropped or hit it can weaken the graphite and cause the rod to suddenly shatter when fighting a fish.
Longer rods are good for casting farther, while shorter rods allow for more leverage when reeling in a fish, especially from a boat. Longer rods can be cumbersome if you are fishing in tight areas with dense vegetation, so that is something to consider. Think about the places you will be fishing and choose accordingly. Are you going to be bottom fishing from a boat? It probably makes sense to get a shorter rod for the leverage. Are you going to be casting long distances in open water? In that case a longer rod is the way to go. Seven feet is a good all-around length.
Rod stiffness is important and varies according to what kind of fishing you are doing. If you are fishing for large fish or will be casting heavy lures, you will need a stiffer rod. If you are fishing for smaller fish then a thin, light, sensitive tip might be the difference between feeling a bite and not feeling anything. Also, it is no fun to horse in small fish on stiff rods. Also it is harder to cast delicate live baits with stiff rods; you need a tip with a little give. If you are fishing for fish with soft mouths, such as crappie, a rod with a softer tip is in order so as to not pull the hook from their mouth.
The taper of a rod is also important. “Fast-taper” rods bend near the tip, while “slow-taper” rods have an even parabolic bend. I generally prefer fast taper rods for most of the types of fishing I do. They tend to have more lifting power. Parabolic rods are good when fishing very light line as they tend to be more forgiving and absorb the shock of fish surges.
Guide material is important as well. Cheaper guides tend to be heavier, adding to the overall weight of the rod. Also, cheaper guide materials may not hold up if you are using braided line. If your line cuts into the guide then it can become stuck there and break. If you are going to fish with braided line, make sure the guides will hold up. Check your guides periodically; if they are nicked in any way then replace them because they will damage your line.
As you get more serious about fishing (or at least if your budget gets more serious) you might want to explore the option of custom rods. These can be specifically made to fit you as well as the type of fishing you will be doing. I should warn you though, once you go custom it’s hard to go back. Whether you buy custom or factory wrapped, I really like the Calstar Grafighter rods for fishing saltwater.
Fishing tackle, like many things, can be divided very broadly into three categories. The cheapest stuff is nearly always junk. I do not recommend buying the cheapest rod or reel you can find as it will not last and not function well. The next category up of gear, the mid-level, should work just fine. The top end pricey stuff is great to use if you can afford it and once you use it you will have a hard time going back just like anything. Click here for unbiased recommendations of tackle that has worked for me.
Rods
Before selecting a fishing rod, you need to figure out what kind of fish you want to catch with it. Once you do that, you need to figure out how you will be fishing for them. Rods will have suggested line rating and lure weight ranges on them. In general you should assume that the rod will perform optimally in the middle of that range. Note that the line ratings go out the window if you will be using braided line. In general, one-piece rods outperform rods that can be broken down into multiple pieces, but the convenience of being able to break down a rod into shorter pieces is often very valuable in this age of airline excess baggage fees.
Some of the factors to consider when selecting a rod are feel, weight, length, stiffness, taper, and guide material. If you hold a rod and it just doesn’t “feel right” you probably shouldn’t buy it as it is only going to feel worse after a day of casting with it. You want to get the lightest rod that you can get away with as this will reduce fatigue when casting all day. Rods made of graphite are generally the lightest and most sensitive although they are more likely to snap than fiberglass rods. If they get dropped or hit it can weaken the graphite and cause the rod to suddenly shatter when fighting a fish.
Longer rods are good for casting farther, while shorter rods allow for more leverage when reeling in a fish, especially from a boat. Longer rods can be cumbersome if you are fishing in tight areas with dense vegetation, so that is something to consider. Think about the places you will be fishing and choose accordingly. Are you going to be bottom fishing from a boat? It probably makes sense to get a shorter rod for the leverage. Are you going to be casting long distances in open water? In that case a longer rod is the way to go. Seven feet is a good all-around length.
Rod stiffness is important and varies according to what kind of fishing you are doing. If you are fishing for large fish or will be casting heavy lures, you will need a stiffer rod. If you are fishing for smaller fish then a thin, light, sensitive tip might be the difference between feeling a bite and not feeling anything. Also, it is no fun to horse in small fish on stiff rods. Also it is harder to cast delicate live baits with stiff rods; you need a tip with a little give. If you are fishing for fish with soft mouths, such as crappie, a rod with a softer tip is in order so as to not pull the hook from their mouth.
The taper of a rod is also important. “Fast-taper” rods bend near the tip, while “slow-taper” rods have an even parabolic bend. I generally prefer fast taper rods for most of the types of fishing I do. They tend to have more lifting power. Parabolic rods are good when fishing very light line as they tend to be more forgiving and absorb the shock of fish surges.
Guide material is important as well. Cheaper guides tend to be heavier, adding to the overall weight of the rod. Also, cheaper guide materials may not hold up if you are using braided line. If your line cuts into the guide then it can become stuck there and break. If you are going to fish with braided line, make sure the guides will hold up. Check your guides periodically; if they are nicked in any way then replace them because they will damage your line.
As you get more serious about fishing (or at least if your budget gets more serious) you might want to explore the option of custom rods. These can be specifically made to fit you as well as the type of fishing you will be doing. I should warn you though, once you go custom it’s hard to go back. Whether you buy custom or factory wrapped, I really like the Calstar Grafighter rods for fishing saltwater.
Reels
To me, the reel is the most important piece of equipment if you are targeting big fish. In particular, the drag system on the reel has to function well if a big fish is pulling hard or your line will snap and it will be game over. Drag systems must be smooth (ie, apply even pressure even if the fish is pulling in hard starts and stops) and durable (ie it must not freeze up under intense prolonged pressure. I have had a number of reels freeze up on long runs from big fish, which usually results in the fish being lost.
There are two main kinds of reels: Spinning reels and Baitcasting or Conventional reels. There are also special reels for fly fishing but I don’t do much of that so I’ll skip over those.
Spinning Reels
Spinning reels are excellent for beginners because they are easy to use. They are easy to switch between a left handed retrieve and a right handed retrieve, which is a nice feature. Casting is very easy - you flip the bail over, hold the line with your index finger, and let go once you snap the rod forward in order to cast. Spinning reels are an excellent choice for very light lures and baits as a conventional reel will usually be difficult to cast with weights of 1/8 oz or less. They are not as good for precision casting as baitcasting reels, but you can still be very precise especially if you get good at slowing the line down with your fingers after you cast.
Spinning reels are rarely used for very large fish (ie Marlin trolling) because they don’t tend to be as sturdy as conventional reels and the drag systems are not usually as good. Also, it is harder to generate reel cranking power. However, there are some high end ones such as the Daiwa Saltiga that can handle some big fish. I caught a 175lb Goliath Grouper on my Daiwa Saltiga Dogfight reel, as well as many large Giant Trevally and other species.
Personally I really like the Daiwa Certate spinning reels for freshwater and the Daiwa Dogfight for heavy saltwater. They are kind of high end but there are plenty of spinning reels in the mid-tier range that work well. Most freshwater fish are not going to rip 100 yards off your drag so they don’t put as much pressure on your tackle.
When selecting a spinning reel, I like to hold it to feel the weight, and see if it retrieves without much wobble. I also like to test the anti-reverse by reeling forwards and then suddenly trying to reel backwards. A good reel should stop the reverse reeling immediately; a cheaper reel will let you reel handle slip back a ¼” or more before stopping. You want immediate stoppage for good hooksets. Some retailers such as Bass Pro Shops also have reviews that can be helpful.
Many spinning reels feel smooth at the store, but do not hold up over time. Make sure you get one with quality parts that will last.
Conventional Reels
Conventional reels have a rotating spool that spins when you cast. These generally have stronger drag systems than spinning reels and are easier to crank when there is a lot of pressure, but they are harder for beginners to use. This is because if the spool spins faster than the line is going out when you cast, you will get a big knot called a backlash. These can be so bad that you sometimes have to cut large amounts of line off in order to use the reel.
The way you avoid a backlash is to keep some pressure on the spool with your thumb as the spool rotates when you cast. This takes some practice and there is kind of an art to figuring out when to put pressure and how much. Most conventional reels have some sort of casting control that you can use to slow the reel down and reduce backlashes. However, the more you slow the spool down the less distance you get. The real experts like to use zero cast control and do it all with their thumbs. Personally I like to have some of the cast control turned on in case I space out during a particular cast and create a backlash.
In order to learn how to cast conventional reels without backlashing I used to practice in a field next to my dorm in college. It probably looked funny but you see a lot of crazy stuff going on at all hours on college campuses so people didn’t really pay much attention. You really have to put in some practice time to get the hang of it, but once you can do it there are a lot of advantages. Being able to control the spool with your thumb allows you to make extremely precise casts when you get good at it.
If you do get a backlash, don’t start pulling the different loops or it will become impossible to get out. Start by gently pulling the main line until you find the first loop that is stopping the line. Grab that loop and gently pull it and then try gently pulling the main line again. Keep doing this until there are no more loops. Some people like to use a hook or toothpick or something sharp to pick out the loops but I always worry about damaging the line so I don’t do that.
Some conventional reels (especially baitcasting reels, a subset of conventional reels that fit in your hand) have a “level wind” feature that puts the line on the spool evenly as you retrieve. Others do not have this feature, so you have to guide the line with your fingers as you retrieve to avoid having it bunch up in one area.
My favorite baitcasting reel is the Daiwa Steez. It is extremely lightweight and very smooth. It is also very expensive. In the more moderate price range I really like the Daiwa Zillion series. There have been many versions of this over the years. It is not as light as the Steez but is well built and smooth.
On the larger conventional reels I tend to use Accurate reels. I like the ATD Platinum model 50 for big game trolling and bait fishing. What a powerful reel. On the smaller end the BX 2-speeds are also good for winching up large saltwater fish. 2-speed reels allow you to shift between a higher speed, lower power retrieve and a lower speed, higher power retrieve. This can be invaluable when trying to gain line on big fish.
To me, the reel is the most important piece of equipment if you are targeting big fish. In particular, the drag system on the reel has to function well if a big fish is pulling hard or your line will snap and it will be game over. Drag systems must be smooth (ie, apply even pressure even if the fish is pulling in hard starts and stops) and durable (ie it must not freeze up under intense prolonged pressure. I have had a number of reels freeze up on long runs from big fish, which usually results in the fish being lost.
There are two main kinds of reels: Spinning reels and Baitcasting or Conventional reels. There are also special reels for fly fishing but I don’t do much of that so I’ll skip over those.
Spinning Reels
Spinning reels are excellent for beginners because they are easy to use. They are easy to switch between a left handed retrieve and a right handed retrieve, which is a nice feature. Casting is very easy - you flip the bail over, hold the line with your index finger, and let go once you snap the rod forward in order to cast. Spinning reels are an excellent choice for very light lures and baits as a conventional reel will usually be difficult to cast with weights of 1/8 oz or less. They are not as good for precision casting as baitcasting reels, but you can still be very precise especially if you get good at slowing the line down with your fingers after you cast.
Spinning reels are rarely used for very large fish (ie Marlin trolling) because they don’t tend to be as sturdy as conventional reels and the drag systems are not usually as good. Also, it is harder to generate reel cranking power. However, there are some high end ones such as the Daiwa Saltiga that can handle some big fish. I caught a 175lb Goliath Grouper on my Daiwa Saltiga Dogfight reel, as well as many large Giant Trevally and other species.
Personally I really like the Daiwa Certate spinning reels for freshwater and the Daiwa Dogfight for heavy saltwater. They are kind of high end but there are plenty of spinning reels in the mid-tier range that work well. Most freshwater fish are not going to rip 100 yards off your drag so they don’t put as much pressure on your tackle.
When selecting a spinning reel, I like to hold it to feel the weight, and see if it retrieves without much wobble. I also like to test the anti-reverse by reeling forwards and then suddenly trying to reel backwards. A good reel should stop the reverse reeling immediately; a cheaper reel will let you reel handle slip back a ¼” or more before stopping. You want immediate stoppage for good hooksets. Some retailers such as Bass Pro Shops also have reviews that can be helpful.
Many spinning reels feel smooth at the store, but do not hold up over time. Make sure you get one with quality parts that will last.
Conventional Reels
Conventional reels have a rotating spool that spins when you cast. These generally have stronger drag systems than spinning reels and are easier to crank when there is a lot of pressure, but they are harder for beginners to use. This is because if the spool spins faster than the line is going out when you cast, you will get a big knot called a backlash. These can be so bad that you sometimes have to cut large amounts of line off in order to use the reel.
The way you avoid a backlash is to keep some pressure on the spool with your thumb as the spool rotates when you cast. This takes some practice and there is kind of an art to figuring out when to put pressure and how much. Most conventional reels have some sort of casting control that you can use to slow the reel down and reduce backlashes. However, the more you slow the spool down the less distance you get. The real experts like to use zero cast control and do it all with their thumbs. Personally I like to have some of the cast control turned on in case I space out during a particular cast and create a backlash.
In order to learn how to cast conventional reels without backlashing I used to practice in a field next to my dorm in college. It probably looked funny but you see a lot of crazy stuff going on at all hours on college campuses so people didn’t really pay much attention. You really have to put in some practice time to get the hang of it, but once you can do it there are a lot of advantages. Being able to control the spool with your thumb allows you to make extremely precise casts when you get good at it.
If you do get a backlash, don’t start pulling the different loops or it will become impossible to get out. Start by gently pulling the main line until you find the first loop that is stopping the line. Grab that loop and gently pull it and then try gently pulling the main line again. Keep doing this until there are no more loops. Some people like to use a hook or toothpick or something sharp to pick out the loops but I always worry about damaging the line so I don’t do that.
Some conventional reels (especially baitcasting reels, a subset of conventional reels that fit in your hand) have a “level wind” feature that puts the line on the spool evenly as you retrieve. Others do not have this feature, so you have to guide the line with your fingers as you retrieve to avoid having it bunch up in one area.
My favorite baitcasting reel is the Daiwa Steez. It is extremely lightweight and very smooth. It is also very expensive. In the more moderate price range I really like the Daiwa Zillion series. There have been many versions of this over the years. It is not as light as the Steez but is well built and smooth.
On the larger conventional reels I tend to use Accurate reels. I like the ATD Platinum model 50 for big game trolling and bait fishing. What a powerful reel. On the smaller end the BX 2-speeds are also good for winching up large saltwater fish. 2-speed reels allow you to shift between a higher speed, lower power retrieve and a lower speed, higher power retrieve. This can be invaluable when trying to gain line on big fish.